Bold, orange lips at Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2011. Photo: ImaxTree
At New York Fashion Week, bright orange lipstick literally popped off the runway. Paired with everything from minimalistic blacks to jolly floral prints, it made a statement that was fun, flirty and fresh, and it's a trend you can easily wear this fall to be ahead of the fashion curve.
We saw and reported on this citrus-spritzed trend at a whopping twelve different shows. While the tangerine shade does follow, in theory, fall's bold lipstick trend
, spring's hottest hue has the added plus of emphasizing your eye color and the highlights in your hair.
We asked Shiseido
Makeup Artistic Director Dick Page -- who created the brilliant orange lip for the Marc by Marc Jacobs
and Isaac Mizrahi
shows -- how one unique shade can end up dominating the runways.
"The funny thing is, makeup artists don't really get to see what other artists are doing. We're all stuck backstage in our frenzied little worlds," Page tells StyleList. "I think a bright lip is an instant lift to any face, so it's an especially fun thing to do for a fashion show, I guess my fellow makeup artists felt the same!" added Page.
Shades are often decided upon at what's called a makeup test
, which takes place just days before the show so the lead makeup artist, hair stylist and manicurist can come together with the designer and decide on a total beauty look that complements the outfits and vision of the collection.
"The girls of Ohne Titel
weren't really thinking lip, but I looked at the clothes and kept seeing these great fluorescent nuances. Since they were using neoprene fabric, I wanted it to feel quite surf girl and sporty, with cool zinc-esque colors," says Revlon's Gucci Westman of the beauty look she created for Ohne Titel.
"That's why I ended up powdering the lip with fluorescent orange powder on top of the Revlon Super Lustrous Siren lipstick, so it would have that chalky finish that feels less glamorous and more sporty. The bright orange adds a freshness to a lot of the whites, greys, silvers mints in the collection this season. It also has a nice futuristic feeling without being too strange. Very wearable for spring with a squeaky clean face," adds Westman.
Westman fell so in love with the discontinued orange Revlon
shade that she brought it back from the annals of makeup retirement. Revlon
will relaunch the shade as a part of their Fire & Ice color collection that will be available come November.
Even though designers run through beauty tests with their team ahead of time, they can be known to change their minds on the day of the show -- and makeup artists have to quickly improvise.
Marc by Marc Jacobs 2011春裝在後台彩妝上使用亮橙色的嘴唇。
紐約時裝周在明亮的橙色唇膏字面上配對，運用在花朵等圖片列印將它作了發言，很有趣.調情且新鮮.而且是您可以輕鬆地搭配穿在今春裝的時尚曲線趨勢。報告了這一橘色趨勢 spritzed 在 whopping 十二個不同的節目。橘色遵循理論秋天的大膽口紅的趨勢在春天的最熱門色相.有添加的加號的強調.你眼睛的顏色搭配和你的髮型。
我們問資生堂化妝藝術總監Dick Page是誰呢?又是如何決定在幾場秀後台使用橘色系口紅.搞笑的事是： 他回答道「化妝藝術家真的不去看其他藝術家正在做什麼。 我們所有後臺在我們瘋狂的小小世界，認為明亮的唇是一個即時的ｃｒｅａｔｉｖｅ，任何的臉，因此它是一個特別有趣時尚的顯示： 我猜我同化妝藝術家認為相同 。但我看著衣服，一直看到這些偉大的螢光細微差別。我想它感到相當的女孩衝浪和輕便，可與服飾恰到好處的顏色 .往往決定後。 髮型和指甲可以連同設計，並決定服飾和集合視覺美麗的化妝。
Orange lips on the Spring 2011 runways of J. Mendel, Ohne Titel, Imitation, and Milly. Photos: Amy Sussman, Getty Images | Astrid Schwiarz, Getty Images| Andy Kropa, Getty Images| Frazer Harrison, Getty Images (clockwise from top left)
"The bright orange lip at Marc by Marc Jacobs was the result of endless trial and error, mostly trial! I ended up doing a second test on the day of the show, which, combined with the painstaking hair process, made us rather late," says Page. "The fruity matte lip just felt right for the collection, as did the slightly odd coral shade I mixed up for Isaac Mizrahi."
The tone of orange varied from hot to bright and deep, but the finish was the same nearly everywhere: matte. Sarah Lucero for Stila cosmetics says that look was every bit intentional.
"I wanted it to look velvety and flat, without a traditional lipstick or gloss finish. It's almost like a red velvet cupcake," Lucero said of the orange lip she created for Lela Rose
To achieve a long-lasting matte finish, most makeup artists first applied a lip base like concealer followed by matte lip color, and then further flattened the color by blotting with either translucent or even orange-colored powder.
Unlike a bold red or plum lip that requires a certain undertone to pull off, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury says that anyone can wear orange. Yes, really.
Orange lips on the Spring 2011 runways of Jill Stuart, Isaac Mizrahi, Lela Rose, and Luca Luca. Photos: Thos Robinson, Getty Images | Frazer Harrison, Getty Images | Jemal Countess, Getty Images | Frazer Harrison, Getty Images
"This color suits most people. It's more modern than last season's red lip and it complements every skin tone and makes your eye color pop. It's incredibly effective!" says Tilbury.
Curious and want to experiment? Here's how the makeup artists created all of the orange lip colors StyleList reported on at Spring 2011 New York Fashion Week
Alice + Olivia
(Romero Jennings for MAC Cosmetics): MAC Virgin Isle Cream Color Base mixed with Acid Orange Neon Pigment, then set with Prep & Prime Translucent Powder.
(Lucia Pica for MAC Cosmetics): MAC So Chaud Lipstick, with a translucent powder lightly brushed over it for a matte finish.
(Nadine Luke for MAC Cosmetics): Mix of MAC Orange and Crimson Cream Matte Lip Colors.
(Dick Page for Shiseido): Custom-blended pinky coral from Shiseido swatches.
(Charlotte Tilbury): Jill Stuart Tangerine Lip Gloss
(Bobbi Brown for Bobbi Brown): Nude beige base color with a touch of gold, and then Bobbi Brown Coral Gables Lipstick, all applied with lip brushes.
(Sarah Lucero for Stila Cosmetics for Beauty.com): Stila Longwear Lip Color mixed in Outrageous and Lover (a red and an orange), finished with a blotting of orange eye shadow for a matte finish.
(James Kaliardos for MAC Cosmetics): MAC So Vein Lipstick.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
(Dick Page for Shiseido): Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Day Lily, blotted, then topped with Orange Pigment Powder, which will launch in the spring.
Milly by Michelle Smith
(Romy Soleimani for MAC Cosmetics): Mix MAC Good to Go Pro Longwear Lip Cream with Orange Lipmix and Devilish Orange Cream Color Base.
(Gucci Westman for Revlon): Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Siren, available in November.
Z Spoke by Zac Posen
(Charlotte Willer for Maybelline): Custom-blended orange lip creams.
Celebrities love this look too. Click through the gallery below for eye candy of stars in coral lipstick.